Critic

Touring FICO Eataly World, a Magical Kingdom of Pasta

Can a new theme park devoted to all things Italian food convince tourists to skip the country’s quiet byways and head straight to the superstore?

The entrance to FICO Eataly World Agri-Food Park in Bologna, Italy.

Photographer: Geraldine Hope Ghelli/Bloomberg

Bologna, nicknamed la grassa—“the fat one”—for its wealth and edible delicacies, is located in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region, thebirthplace of tortellini, Parmesan, prosciutto, and balsamic vinegar. Foodies have long hopped on the two-hour train from Rome to hunt down the flavors nestled in the picturesque city and nearby hillside villages.

But now, you no longer need to find these delights on your own. Starting this November, you can tap vast swaths of Italy’s food culture at Bologna’s FICO Eataly World, or FICO for short. (The acronym stands for Fabbrica Italiana Contadina, which roughly translates to Italian Farming Factory, but also colloquially means “cool” or “attractive.”)